FRANCE
A Pithivier (Pithiviers in French) is a round, enclosed pie usually made by baking two disks of puff pastry, with filling stuffed in
between. It has the appearance of a hump and is traditionally decorated with
spiral lines drawn from the top outwards with the point of a knife, and
scalloping the edge.
The filling
is always placed as a lump in the middle of the bottom dough layer, rather than
spread on it, because it would then liquefy and leak during baking.
The pie is
traditionally finished with a distinct shine to the top of the crust, by
egg-washing beforehand, or by caramelising a dusting of confectioner's sugar at the end of baking, or both.
Whilst
the filling of the Pithivier is often a sweet frangipane of almond paste, (optionally combined with
fruit such as cherry or plum), savoury pies with a meat or cheese filling
can also be labelled as a Pithivier. The term is sometimes used incorrectly on
English menus to mean 'pie', especially in upscale restaurants.
It is
commonly assumed that the dish originates from the town of Pithiviers, France.
Mille -Feuille
The mille-feuille (French pronunciation: [mil fœj], "thousand
sheets"), vanilla
slice, custard slice, also known as the Napoleon, is a pastry of French origin.
Traditionally,
a mille-feuille is made up of three layers of puff pastry (pâte feuilletée), alternating
with two layers of pastry cream (crème pâtissière), but
sometimes whipped cream, or jam are substituted. The top pastry layer
is dusted with confectioner's sugar, and sometimes cocoa, or pulverized seeds
(e.g. roasted almonds). Alternatively the top is
glazed with icing or fondant in alternating white (icing) and brown (chocolate) stripes, and combed.
History
The exact origin of the mille-feuille is unknown. François Pierre La Varenne described a version
in Le Cuisinier
françois, 1651. It was later
improved by Marie-Antoine
Carême. Carême, writing in the early 19th century, considered it of
"ancient origin".
Composition
Traditionally, a mille-feuille is made up of three layers of puff
pastry, and two layers of crème pâtissière. The top layer is coated with a
sprinkling of powdered sugar. In later variations, the top is glazed with icing, in
alternating white (icing) and brown (chocolate) strips, and then combed.
Today,
there are also savoury mille-feuille, with cheese and spinach or other savoury
fillings.
Variant Names And
Forms
According to
La Varenne, it was earlier called gâteau de mille-feuilles (English: cake of a thousand sheets),
referring to the many layers of pastry. Using traditional puff pastry, made
with six folds of three layers, it has 729 layers; with some modern recipes it
may have as many as 2,048.
The variant
name of Napoleon appears to come from napolitain, the French adjective for the Italian city of Naples, but altered by association
with the name of Emperor Napoleon I of France.
The Larousse Gastronomique does not mention the Napoléon,
although agateau napolitain is listed, with a note that while the
cake itself is not often seen, small biscuits known as fonds napolitains are still made, decorated with butter
cream or conserves. There is no evidence to connect the
pastry to the emperor himself. In France, a Napoleon is a mille-feuille
filled with almond flavoured paste.
The
authentic Australian Napoleon slice has pastry on the bottom, a layer of
strawberry jam, a layer of sponge cake about 3 cm thick, another layer of
jam, a layer of cream topped by a layer of puff pastry and spread with vanilla
icing.
In Italy, it is
called mille foglie and contains similar fillings. A
savoury Italian version consists of puff pastry filled with spinach, cheese or pesto, among other things. Another
important distinction of the Italian variety is that it often consists of a
layer of puff pastry with layers of sponge cake as well (e.g. from bottom to
top, puff pastry, sponge cake strawberries and cream and then puff pastry).
In the United Kingdom, the cake is most often called a
"vanilla slice" or a "cream slice", but can, on occasion,
be named "mille-feuille" or "Napoleon" on branded products.
In Canada, mille-feuille is more commonly
named 'gâteaux Napoléon,' or 'Napoleon Slice,' (in English Canada) due to the
country's long French history. It is sold either with custard, whipped cream,
or both, between three layers of puff pastry. Almond paste is the most common
flavoured variety.
There is a French Canadian way where the mille-feuille is
done with graham crackers instead of puff pastry, and where pudding replaces
the custard layer.
In South Africa and Zimbabwe, it
is called a "custard slice".
In Sweden as well as in Finland, the Napoleonbakelse (Napoleon pastry) is a mille-feuille
filled with whipped cream, custard, and jam.
The top of the pastry is glazed
with icing and currant jelly. In Denmark and Norway, it is simply called Napoleon-cake.
In the German speaking part of Switzerland and also in Austria it is called
"Crèmeschnitte".
In Hungary it is called "kremes".
Its version "francia krémes" (French Napoleon) is topped with whipped
cream and caramel.
In Belgium and the Netherlands, the tompouce or tompoes is the equivalent pastry. Several
variations exist in Belgium, but in the Netherlands, it is iconic and the
market allows preciously little variation in form, size, ingredients and colour
(always two layers of pastry, nearly always pink glazing, but orange around
national festivities).
In the Spanish milhojas, the puff pastry is thin and
crunchy. They are often far deeper than solely of three layers of the pastry,
and reach up to .5 feet (0.15 m) tall.
In Hong Kong, the 拿破侖 (Napoleon pastry) is layered with butter cream, chiffon cake and, occasionally, walnuts.
In Iran, the pastry is called "شيرينى ناپلئونى" (Shirini-e Nâpel'oni,
literally "Napoleonic Sweet Pastry") after Napoleon Bonaparte. It consists of thin puff pastry and often
topped with powdered sugar.
In Chile milhojas, various layers of puff pastry are layered with dulce de leche and confectioner sugar on top.
In Poland, the local variant of the pastry is
called kremówka, or napoleonka. They consist of two layers of pastry, between which is
thick cream. The whole pastry is then covered with powdered sugar.
In Slovenia, the local variety of the pastry is
called kremna rezina.
In Greece, the pastry is called
"Μιλφέιγ", which is the transcription of the word mille-feuille using
Greek letters. The filling between the layers is cream whereas Chantilly cream
is used at the top of the pastry.
In Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia, it is
consumed regularly. It is called "mille-feuille" also.
Competitions
An annual competition for
the best vanilla slice baker is the Great Australian Vanilla Slice Triumph held in Ouyen in western Victoria. Judging criteria include "when tasted, should reveal a custard
with a creamy smooth texture and a balance of vanilla taste with a crisp,
crunchy pastry topped with a smooth and shiny glaze/fondant"
Cream Brulee
Crème brûlée (pron.: /ˌkrɛm bruːˈleɪ/; French pronunciation: [kʁɛm bʁy.le]), also known as burnt cream, crema catalana, orTrinity cream is a dessert consisting of a rich custard base topped with a contrasting layer
of hard caramel. It is normally served at
room temperature.
The custard
base is traditionally flavored with vanilla, but is also sometimes
flavored with lemon or orange (zest), rosemary, chocolate, Amaretto, Grand Marnier, coffee, liqueurs, green tea, pistachio, coconut, or other fruit.
History
The exact
origins are uncertain, and there have been debates as to whether the dessert's
origins lie in France or Britain.
The earliest
known reference of creme brulee as we know it today appears in François Massialot's 1691 cookbook, and the French name was used in the English translation of
this book, but the 1731 edition of Massialot's Cuisinier roial et bourgeois changed the name of the same recipe from "crème
brûlée" to "crème anglaise". In the early eighteenth century, the dessert was called
"burnt cream" in English.
In Britain, a version of crème brûlée (known locally as 'Trinity Cream' or
'Cambridge burnt cream') was introduced at Trinity College, Cambridge in 1879 with the college arms "impressed on top of the
cream with a branding iron", The story goes that the recipe was from an Aberdeenshire country house and was offered by an
undergraduate to the college cook, who turned it down.
However, when the
student became a Fellow, he managed to convince the
cook.
Cream Catalan
In Catalan language; Crema catalana ('Catalan cream'), crema cremada ('Burnt cream') or crema de Sant Josep, is a Catalan dish similar to crème brûlée. It is
traditionally served on Saint Joseph's Day (March the 19th) although nowadays it is consumed at all times
of year.
The custard is flavored with lemon or orange zest, and cinnamon. The sugar in crema catalana is traditionally caramelized under an iron broiler or with a specially
made iron, not with a flame. Sometimes Crema Catalana is baked with a pineapple
on top (crema Catalana amb pinya).
Technique
Crème brûlée is usually served in individual ramekins. Discs of
caramel may be prepared separately and put on top just before serving, or the
caramel may be formed directly on top of the custard, immediately before
serving.
To do this, sugar is sprinkled onto the custard, then caramelized
under a broiler / salamander or with a blow torch.
Cream caramel
Crème caramel (French: [kʁɛm kaʁaˈmɛl]), flan [flɑ̃], or caramel
custard is a custard dessert with a layer of soft caramel on top, as opposed to crème brûlée, which is custard with a hard caramel top. The
dish is eaten throughout the world.
Crème
caramel used to be ubiquitous in European restaurants; food historian Alan Davidson remarks:
In the later
part of the 20th century crème caramel occupied an excessively large amount of
territory in European restaurant dessert menus. This was probably due to the
convenience, for restaurateurs, of being able to prepare a lot in advance and
keep them until needed.
Etymology of names
Both crème caramel (French 'caramel custard') and flan (ultimately from Old German flado meaning 'cake') are French names, but flan has come to have different meanings
in different regions.
In Spanish-speaking countries and in North America, flan refers to crème caramel. This was
originally a Spanish usage, but the dish is now best known in the United
States in a Latin American
context. Elsewhere, including in Britain,
a flan (French flan pâtissier) is a type of tart somewhat like a quiche, usually containing a thick egg custard with either
sweet or savoury flavouring.
'The Modern
English word flan and the earlier flawn come from French flan, from Old French flaon, in turn from Medieval Latin fladonem, derived from the Old High German flado, a sort of flat cake, probably from
an Indo-European root for 'flat' or 'broad'.The North American sense of flan as crème caramel was borrowed from Latin American
Spanish.
Preparation, cooking and presentation
Preparation
Crème
caramel is a variant of plain custard (crème) where sugar syrup cooked to
caramel stage is poured into the mold before adding the custard base. It is
usually cooked in a bain-marie on a stove top or in the oven in a water bath.
It is turned
and served with the caramel sauce on top, hence the alternate French name crème caramel renversée.
Imitations
An imitation
of crème caramel may be prepared from "instant flan powder", which is
thickened with agar or carrageenan rather than eggs. In some Latin American countries, the true custard version
is known as "milk flan" (flan de leche) or even "milk
cheese", and the substitute version is known as just "flan".
Region varieties
Latin America
Most notably
in Argentina, Chile and Uruguay, but
also in some neighbouring countries like Panama, crème caramel is usually eaten with
dulce de leche.
In Venezuela, and Brazil it is often made with condensed milk, milk, eggs and sugar caramelized on top. The
Venezuelan version is known as "quesillo" and in Brazil, it is known
as "pudim de leite condensado" (lit. condensed milk pudding).
In Chile it is often eaten with dulce de membrillo too (a quince gelatin spread) or leche condensada.
Cuba
Cuban flan
known in Spanish-speaking countries as "Flan de Cuba" is made with the addition of the
whites of two eggs and the flavoring of a cinnamon stick.
A similar
Cuban dish is "Copa Lolita", a small caramel flan served with one or
two scoops of vanilla ice-cream. Other variations include coconut or rum raisin
topping.
Puerto Rico
Often
Caribbean flan's are coconut based and called "Flan de Coco" made
with both condensed milk and coconut milk. A variation with rum is called
"Coquito."
Philippines
In the Philippines, flan is known as leche flan (the local term for the originally Spanish flan de leche, literally "milk flan"),
which is a heavier version of the Spanish flan made with condensed milk and
more egg yolks.
Leche flan is usually steamed over an open flame or stove top,
although rarely it can also be seen baked. Leche flan is a staple in
celebratory feasts.
A heavier
version of leche flan, tocino del cielo, is similar, but has significantly more egg yolks and sugar.
Vietnam
Crème
caramel was introduced by the French and has been common in Vietnam. It is known as bánh caramel, caramen or kem caramel in northern Vietnam or bánh flan or kem flan in southern Vietnam.
Sometimes black
coffee can be poured on top when served, giving the dish a new tone and
distinctive flavour.
Malaysia
Crème
caramel is a very popular desert dish in Malaysia, first introduced by the Portuguese in the 1500s. It
is sometimes also called "caramel pie" in the country. Sold
year-round, it becomes especially popular during the Ramadan fasting month and
is sold at almost every street bazaar or pasar Ramadan during that month.
Japan
Packaged
crème caramel is ubiquitous in Japanese convenience stores under the name purin (プリン?) (i.e., "pudding"), or custard pudding.
India
Caramel
custard, a Raj favourite, is a milk mixture baked in a dish with sweet caramel
lining its base.
Baguette
A baguette (pron.: /bæˈɡɛt/ French pronunciation: [ba.gɛt], feminine noun) is "a long thin
loaf of French bread" that is commonly made from basic lean dough (the dough, though not the shape, is
defined by French law).
It is distinguishable by its length and crisp crust.
A standard
baguette has a diameter of about 5 or 6 centimetres (2 or 2⅓ in) and
a usual length of about 65 centimetres (26 in), although a baguette can be
up to a metre (40 in) long.
History
The word
itself was not used to refer to a type of bread until apparently 1920, but what is now known as "baguette" may have
existed well before that. In the French language, the word has long been
applied to many elongated objects that are not bread, such as baguette magique (magic wand), baguettes chinoises (chopsticks), or baguette de direction (conductor's baton).
Though the
baguette today is often considered one of the symbols of French culture viewed
from abroad, the association of France with long loaves predates any mention of
it. Long, if wide, loaves had been made since the time of Louis XIV, long thin
ones since the mid-eighteenth century and in fact by the nineteenth century
some were far longer than the baguette: "loaves of bread six feet long
that look like crowbars!" (1862); "Housemaids were hurrying homewards with their
purchases for various Gallic breakfasts, and the long sticks of bread, a yard or two in length, carried under their
arms, made an odd impression upon me." (1898)
A less
direct link can be made however with deck ovens, or steam ovens. Deck/steam
ovens are a combination of a gas-fired traditional oven and a brick oven, a thick "deck" of stone or firebrick heated by natural gas instead of
wood.
The first steam oven was brought (in the early nineteenth century) to
Paris by the Austrian officer August Zang, who also introduced the pain viennois (and the croissant) and whom some
French sources thus credit with originating the baguette.
Deck ovens
use steam injection, through various methods, to create the proper baguette.
The oven is typically heated to well over 205 °C (400 °F). The steam allows the
crust to expand before setting, thus creating a lighter, airier loaf. It also
melts the dextrose on the bread's surface, giving a slightly glazed effect.
An unsourced
article in The Economist states that in October 1920 a law prevented bakers from
working before 4am, making it impossible to make the traditional, round loaf in
time for customers' breakfasts.
The slender baguette, the article claims, solved the problem because it could be prepared and
baked much more rapidly, though France had already had long
thin breads for over a century at that point.
The law in
question appears in fact to be one from March 1919, though some say it took
effect in October 1920: "It is forbidden to employ workers at bread and
pastry making between ten in the evening and four in the morning." The rest of the account remains to be
verified, but the use of the word for a long thin bread does appear to be a
twentieth century innovation.
Manufacture and styles
The
"baguette de tradition française" is made from wheat flour, water,
yeast, and common salt. It does not contain additives, but it may contain broad bean flour (max 2%), soya flour (max 0.5%), wheat malt flour (max 0.3%). Standard baguettes however may contain a certain number of
additives.Depending on those used either in the original flour or in making the
bread itself, a baguette (or any other French bread) may not be considered
vegan or kosher.
While a
regular baguette is made with a direct addition of baker's yeast, it is not unusual for artisan-style loaves to
be made with a poolish, "biga" or other bread pre-ferments to increase flavor complexity and
other characteristics, as well as the addition of whole wheat flour or other grains such as rye.
French bread is required by law to avoid preservatives,
and as a result bread goes stale in under 24 hours, thus baking baguettes is a
daily occurrence, unlike sourdough bread which is baked generally once or twice a week, due to
the natural preservatives in a sourdough starter.
Baguettes
are closely connected to France and especially to Paris, though they are made around
the world. In France, not all long loaves are baguettes; for example, a short,
almost rugby ball shaped loaf is a bâtard (literally, bastard), or a "torpedo loaf" in
English (its origin is variously explained, but undocumented), another tubular
shaped loaf is known as a flûte (also known in the United States as aparisienne)
flûtes closely resemble baguettes and weigh more or less than these, depending
on the region, and a thinner loaf is called a ficelle (string). (None of these are officially defined either
legally or, for instance, in major dictionaries, any more than the baguette
itself.)
French breads are also made in forms such as a miche, which is a large pan loaf, and a boule, literally ball in French, a large round loaf.
Sandwich-sized loaves are sometimes known as demi-baguettes, tiers, or sometimes "Rudi
rolls".
Baguettes,
either relatively short single-serving size or cut from a longer loaf, are very
often used for sandwiches (usually of the submarine sandwich type, but also panini); Baguettes are often sliced and
served with pâté or cheese.
As part of the traditional
continental breakfast in France, slices of baguette are
spread with butter and jam and dunked in bowls of coffee or hot chocolate. In the United States, French Bread loaves are
sometimes split in half to make French bread pizza.
Baguettes are
generally made as partially free-form loaves, with the loaf formed with a
series of folding and rolling motions, raised in cloth-lined baskets or in rows
on a flour-impregnated towel, called a couche, and baked either directly on the
hearth of a deck oven or in special perforated pans designed to hold the shape
of the baguette while allowing heat through the perforations.
Generally
American style "French bread" is much fatter and is not baked in deck
ovens, but in convection ovens.
Outside
France, baguettes are also made with other doughs; for example, the Vietnamese banh
mi uses a
high proportion of rice flour, while many North American bakeries make whole wheat, multigrain, and
sourdough baguettes alongside French-style loaves.
In addition, even classical
French-style recipes vary from place to place, with some recipes adding small
amounts of milk, butter, sugar, or malt extract depending on the desired flavour and properties in the final
loaf.
Croissant
A croissant (
i/krəˈsɑːnt/ or /ˈkwʌsɒŋ/; French pronunciation: [kʁwa.sɑ̃] (
listen)) is a buttery flaky viennoiserie bread roll named for its well known crescent shape.
Croissants and other
viennoiserie are made of a layered yeast-leavened dough. The dough is layered
with butter, rolled and folded several times in succession, then rolled into a
sheet, in a technique called laminating. The process results in a layered,
flaky texture, similar to a puff pastry.
Crescent-shaped
food breads have been made since the Middle Ages, and crescent-shaped cakes
possibly since old times.
Croissants
have long been a staple of French bakeries and patisseries. In the late 1970s, the development of
factory-made, frozen, pre-formed but unbaked dough
made them into a fast food which can be freshly baked by unskilled labor.
Indeed, the
croissanterie was explicitly a French response to American-style fast food, and today 30–40% of the croissants sold in French bakeries
and patisseries are frozen.
This
innovation, along with the croissant's distinctive shape, has made it the most
well known item of French food in much of the world. Today, the croissant
remains popular in a continental breakfast.
Origin
The
Kipferl – ancestor of the croissant – has been documented in Austria going back at least as far as the
13th century, in various shapes. The Kipferl can be made plain or with
nut or other fillings (some consider the rugelach a form of Kipferl).
The
"birth" of the croissant itself – that is, its adaptation from
the plainer form of Kipferl, before the invention of Viennoiserie – can be
dated with some precision to at latest 1839 (some say 1838), when an Austrian
artillery officer, August Zang, founded a Viennese
Bakery ("Boulangerie Viennoise") at 92, rue de Richelieu in Paris.
This bakery, which served Viennese specialities including the
Kipferl and the Vienna loaf, quickly became popular and inspired French
imitators (and the concept, if not the term, viennoiserie, a 20th century term for supposedly
Vienna-style pastries). The
French version of the Kipferl was named for its
crescent (croissant) shape.
Alan Davidson, editor of the Oxford Companion to Food, found no printed recipe for the
present-day croissant in any French recipe book before the early 20th century;
the earliest French reference to a croissant he found was among the
"fantasy or luxury breads" in Payen'sDes substances
alimentaires, 1853.
However, early recipes for non-laminated croissants can
be found in the nineteenth century and at least one reference to croissants as
an established French bread appeared as early as 1850.
August Zang
himself returned to Austria in 1848 to become a press magnate, but the bakery
remained popular for some time after, and was mentioned in several works of the
time: "This same M. Zank...founded around 1830], in Paris, the famous
Boulangerie viennoise".
Several sources praise this bakery's
products: "Paris is of exquisite delicacy; and, in particular, the
succulent products of the Boulangerie Viennoise"; "which seemed to us as fine as if it came from the
Viennese bakery on the rue de Richelieu".
By 1869, the
croissant was well established enough to be mentioned as a breakfast staple, and in 1872, Charles Dickens wrote (in his periodical
"All the Year Round") of:
the
workman's pain de ménage and the soldier's pain de munition, to the dainty
croissant on the boudoir table.
The
Viennoiserie technique was already mentioned in the late 17th century, when La Varenne's Le Cuisinier françois gave a recipe for it in the 1680 – and possibly
earlier – editions. It was typically used, not on its own, but for shells
holding other ingredients (as in a vol-au-vent). But it does not appear to be
mentioned in relation to the croissant until the twentieth century.
Origin stories
Fanciful
stories of how the Kipferl—and so, ultimately, the croissant—was created are
widespread and persistent culinary legends, at least one going back to the 19th
century. However, there are no contemporary
sources for any of these stories, nor does an aristocratic writer, writing in
1799, mention the Kipferl in a long and extensive list of breakfast foods.
The legends
include tales that it was invented in Europe to celebrate the defeat of the Umayyad forces at the Battle of
Tours by the Franks in 732, with the shape representing the Islamic crescent; that it was invented in Vienna in 1683 to celebrate the defeat of the Ottomans by Christian forces in the siege of the city, as a reference to the crescents on
the Ottoman
flags, when bakers
staying up all night heard the tunneling operation and gave the alarm; tales linking croissants with the kifli and the siege of Buda in 1686.
Uncooked
croissant can also be wrapped around any praline, almond paste or chocolate before it is baked (in the last case, it becomes like pain au chocolat, which has a different,
non-crescent, shape), or sliced to admit sweet or savoury fillings.
Indeed, it may be flavoured with dried fruit such
as sultanas or raisins, or other fruits such as apples.
In France and Spain, croissants are
generally sold without filling and eaten without added butter, but sometimes
with almond filling. In the United
States, sweet fillings
or toppings are common, and warm croissants may be filled with ham and cheese or feta
cheese and spinach.
In the Levant, croissants are sold plain or filled
with chocolate, cheese, almonds, or zaatar.
In Germany, croissants are sometimes filled
with Nutella or persipan; in Southern Germany there also is a popular variety
of a croissant glazed with lye ("Laugen croissant"). In the German speaking part
of Switzerland, the croissant is typically called a Gipfeli, which typically has a crisper crust and is less buttery than the French
style croissant.
Argentina
Croissants
are commonly served alongside coffee as a breakfast or merienda. These croissant are referred to as medialunas ('half moons') and are typically
coated with a sweet glaze ("de manteca", made with butter). Another
variant is a medialuna de grasa ("of lard"), which is not always sweet.
Italy
A cousin of
the croissant is the Italian "cornetto" in the Center and South and "brioche" in the North.
These variants are often considered to be the same, that is not completely
true: the French version of the croissant tends to be crispy and contains a lot
of butter, whereas an Italian cornetto or brioche is usually softer.
Furthermore, the "cornetto vuoto" (Italian: "empty
cornetto") is commonly sided by variants with filling, which include
"crema pasticcera", jam and chocolate cream. They often come covered
with powder sugar.
Poland
St. Martin's
Day is celebrated in the Greater Poland region of Poland, mainly in its capital
city Poznań.
On this day, the people of Poznań buy and eat considerable amounts
of croissants, made specially for this occasion from half-French paste with
white-poppy and dainties, so-called Martin Croissants or St. Martin Croissants.
Japan
Croissants
covered with a sweet glaze or filled with chocolate are common in bakeries and
convenience stores.
Spread of the croissant
Historically,
the croissant was not commonplace in the UK. Although available in specialty
places, it was only in the late 1980s that
supermarkets started stocking them and then in the late 1990s with the growth
of cafe culture did the croissant spread.
They were introduced to Ethiopia by 1902, during the reign of
Menelik II.
Croissants
are also seen in former French colonies such as Algeria and Vietnam where in the latter they are called bánh sừng bò.
Brioche
Brioche (pronounced: [bʁi.ɔʃ or
"bree-osh"])
is a highly enriched bread of French origin, whose high egg and butter content give it a rich and tender crumb.
It is "light
and slightly puffy, more or less fine, according to the proportion of butter
and eggs" It has a dark, golden, and flaky
crust, frequently accentuated by an egg wash applied after proofing.
Brioche is
considered a Viennoiserie. It is made in the same basic way as bread, but has
the richer aspect of a pastry because of the extra addition of eggs, butter,
liquid (milk, water, cream, and, sometimes, brandy) and occasionally a bit of
sugar.
Brioche, along with pain au lait and pain aux raisins — which are commonly eaten at
breakfast or as a snack — form a leavened subgroup ofViennoiserie.
Brioche is often cooked with fruit or chocolate chips and served as a pastry or as the basis of a dessert with many
local variations in added ingredients, fillings or toppings.
"Brioche
is eaten with dessert or tea, but also has numerous uses in cuisine. Common
brioche dough is suitable for coulibiac and fillet of beef en croute. Brioche mousseline surrounds
foie gras, sausage, cervelat lyonnais; . . . individual brioches
serve as containers for various chopped and sauced stuffings, savoury or sweet,
as warm appetizers or intermediate courses."
Forms
Brioche à
tête or parisienne is perhaps the most classically
recognized form: it is formed and baked in a fluted round, flared tin; a large
ball of dough is placed on the bottom and topped with a smaller ball of dough
to form the head (tête). Brioche Nanterre is a loaf of brioche made in a standard loaf pan. Instead of
shaping two pieces of dough and baking them together, two rows of small pieces
of dough are placed in the pan.
Loaves are then proofed (allowed to rise) in
the pan, fusing the pieces together. During the baking process the balls of
dough rise further and form an attractive pattern.
Brioche can
also be made in a pan without being rolled into balls to make an ordinary loaf.
Brioche
dough contains flour, eggs, butter, liquid (milk, water, cream, and sometimes
brandy), leavening (yeast or sourdough), salt, and sometimes sugar. Common
recipes have a flour to butter ratio of about 2:1.
The normal
method is to make the dough, let it rise to double its volume at room
temperature and then punch it down and let it rise again in the refrigerator
for varying periods (according to the recipe), retarding the dough to develop
the flavor. Refrigeration also stiffens the
dough, which still rises, albeit slowly, making it easier to form.
The dough is
then shaped, placed in containers for the final rise (proof), and the tops are
generally brushed with an egg wash just before baking to give the top a
burnished sheen during baking, and then baked at 230 °C (446 °F) until the crust browns (Maillard reaction) and the interior
is done (reaches at least 90 °C).
The first rise time for small rolls is 1 to
1½ hours, for larger brioche the time is lengthened until the loaves double.
History
The first
recorded use of the word in French dates from 1404. It is attested in 1611 in Cotgrave’s. A Dictionarie of the French and English Tongues, where it is described as "a
rowle, or bunne, of spiced bread" and its origin given as Norman.
A similar type of bread, called tsoureki (τσουρέκι), is also traditionally baked in Greece for
the Easter weekend.
In France it
developed as "a sort of bread improved since antiquity by generations of
bakers, then of pastry-makers . . . with some butter, some eggs, sugar coming
later . . . it developed from the blessed bread [pain bénit] of the church
which gradually became of better quality, more and more costly, less and less
bread; until becoming savoury brioche".
In the 17th century "pâté à tarte briochée",
"a pain à brioche pauvre . . . [using only] 3 eggs and 250 grams of butter
for 1 kilogram of flour" was introduced. Notably, the oldest complete
recipe that survives is entitled : "CHAPITRE II. Paint bénit, &
brioches."
It begins with a lighter, cheaper version of blessed bread,
calling for "a pound of fresh butter and a soft cheese [but no eggs!] for
a pail of flour; and goes on to describe "the more delicate that we call Cousin",
which uses 3 pounds of butter, 2 cheeses, and a royal pint of eggs for the same
amount of flour, as well "some good milk" if "the dough is too
firm"
However, sourdough and brewer's yeast
preparations would both remain common well into the next century, with
"blessed bread . . . more and more often replaced by brioche" in the
18th century, where, "Those from Gisors and Gournay, great butter markets,
were the most highly regarded." For the wealthy "from the time
of Louis XIV onwards . . . Butter, in widespread use at least in the northern
half of France, was the secret of making brioches"."In Gisors,
on market days, they produce up to 250 or 300 kg of brioches.
The dough is
made the evening before (1 kg of farine, a quarter of which for the
starter, 10 g of yeast, 7 or 8 eggs; one mixes this together with the
starter and 800 g of butter, breaking up the dough, which 'uses up the
butter'.
The dough is kept in a terrine, and one puts it in a mold just at the
moment of baking. Thus prepared, the brioche remains light, keeps well,
maintains the flavour of butter, without the stench of the starter.
The terms 'pain bénit' and 'brioche'
were sometimes used together or virtually interchangeably; so, for example, in
another 17th century recipe entitled : "CHAPITRE II. Paint bénit,
& brioches." It begins with a lighter, cheaper version of blessed
bread, calling for "a pound of fresh butter and a soft cheese [but no
eggs!] for a pail of flour; and goes on to describe "the more delicate
that we call Cousin", which uses 3 pounds of butter, 2 cheeses, and a
royal pint of eggs for the same amount of flour, as well "some good
milk" if "the dough is too firm".
So brioche of varying degrees of richness from the rich man's
with a flour to butter ratio of 3:2 to the cheaper pain briochée with a
ratio of 4:1 existed at the same time.
Jean-Jacques Rousseau, in his autobiography Confessions (published posthumously in 1782, but completed in 1769),
relates that "a great princess" is said to have advised, with
regard to peasants who had no bread, "Qu'ils mangent de la brioche",
commonly inaccurately translated as "Let them eat cake".
This saying is commonly
mis-attributed to Queen Marie-Antoinette, wife of Louis XVI. In the contemporaneous "Encyclopédie" it says:
"the taste for luxury and onerous magnificence of much of the world,
having slipped into religious practice, the usage was introduced in large
cities of giving in place of bread, some more or less delicate cake . . . one
would not believe what it costs the nation every year for this article alone.
We know that there are more than 40,000 parishes in the kingdom where they
distribute blessed bread"
Etymology
Although
there has been much debate about the etymology of the word and, thus, the
recipe's origins, it is now widely accepted that it is
derived from the Old French verb "brier", 'a Norman dialectical form
of "broyer", to work the dough with a "broye" or
"brie" (a sort of wooden roller for kneading); the suffix "-oche"
is a generic deverbal suffix.
"Pain brié" is a Norman bread whose dense
dough was formerly worked with this instrument'. The root—bhreg—is of Germanic origin.-wikipedia
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